But of all the myriad feathered critters cluttering the airspace of this continent, there are only two orders who flutter here and nowhere else: the mousebirds and the turacos.
I’ve already sung the praises of cute
little mousebirds, so today I’ll take you down to the river to meet one of the
weirdest birds I know.
A creature of the forest, around here it lives
only in the verdant tangle of trees along the riverbank. As you pass beneath the towering leadwoods,
jackal berries and figs, you’ll hear its eerie kok-kok-kok-kok-kok call (which
rises, in strength and pitch, to a deafening crescendo) reverberate through
the gloom (you can also experience it here). Carefully scan the smooth upper branches of that giant fig... but no...
Wait... there!
In that water berry, there’s movement.
A large ungainly bird suddenly lopes out along a branch, swaying slightly from side to side as it runs towards you. At first it looks to be black, its long wedge-shaped tail dark against the sky, but as it paces through a splash of sunlight you see its flamboyant plumage: iridescent purples and greens with a flush of rose rising on its breast. Without pausing stride, it leaps over a gap and halts abruptly on a branch directly above you. For a moment it shifts uncertainly from foot to foot, craning first left, then right, trying to catch sight of you. Then, cocking its head on one side, it peers down with one carmine-encircled eye, raising its raffish violet crest (a movement suggestive of arching an eyebrow) and fixes you with a fierce quizzical glower.
This is the purple-crested turaco.
If it decides you’re scary enough, you’re in for a real treat.
After a moment of dithering, running and hopping, it opens its stubby, rounded wings to unfurl a dazzling pageant of scarlet. It then launches into an elegant, balletic leap and glides away to a nearby tree. (I couldn’t find an ‘available-for-use’ image of the bird in flight - and of course snapping one is way beyond me - but please take a look at this one; it’s worth it.)
Running through the treetops, the purple-crested turaco (Gallirex porphyreolopha) bears a distressing resemblance to the world’s earliest feathered aviators. |
Turacos are members of an ancient order
(Musophagiformes) and - since they keep themselves to themselves - no one
really knows who their relatives are. The proteins in their eye-lenses (hey,
the first place you’d look, really) hint at kinship with songbirds, their
feather parasites are cousins to those on itchy fowls and their strange, swivel
toes place cuckoos in their ancestry.
But as far as I’m concerned, they’re like
no other. There’s something absurd and incongruous about their awkward, cumbersome
shape coupled with such over-the-top plumage. They somehow remind me of
avian drag queens, and I’m always half expecting them to break into an Abba
dance routine.
Of course, it’s entirely inappropriate to question the
purple-cresteds’ sexual predilections: they’re highly conventional birds.
Living in old-school nuclear families, they’re unflinchingly monogamous and
defend their home turf (very noisily) from anyone who may disrupt their
conservative familial bliss.
Nevertheless she seems grateful. Maybe it’s because she knows there’s worse to come. Parent turacos not only chomp their little darlings’ old eggshells, they gulp down their excrement too. |
Now if turacos are the closet transvestites
of the avian world, it’s the way they come up with their extravagant costumes
that’s earned them global notoriety. You see turacos are the only feathered
critters able to wear green. Lesser birds may look green but it’s all a con. While others achieve their verdant
hues using yellow feathers (structured to refract sunlight and reflect blue
wave lengths), turacos manufacture a genuine green pigment, turacoverd. This unique colorant is a
copper uroporphyrin compound made up of 6% copper. The birds’ brilliant red
wing feathers (found in most of the forest-dwelling species) are also
designer-made, tinted with another exclusive copper-based stain, turacin. (The rest of the world’s birds
must make do with carotenoids, for bright, orangey reds, and phaeomelanins, for
rusty reds). But accumulating so much copper is challenging (so that’s who’s stealing the telephone
cables...) and it takes young turacos twelve months to grow as gaudy as their
parents (cable theft is slow work?). It’s even been suggested that turacos are
only able to employ copper-based pigments because they dwell in one of the
world’s richest copper belts.
The local copper Mecca: humans have been mining the stuff around here for more than 1200 years. This is the Phalaborwa copper mine, about 60 km (37 miles) up the road. Photo by Roman Betik. |
Sadly, this pigment was also used to tint clothing, sweets and deserts. A mass poisoning in Greennock, Scotland (where green confectionary was all the go during village celebrations) spawned a national aversion to green sweets (and I’ve indeed met a Sparkle-scoffing Scot who staunchly refused the green ones). Nevertheless, it’s all OK. Once our forebears figured out the perils of snacking on arsenic they converted their lovely green dye into an insecticide...
“What do you mean, you’ve never HEARD of turacos!” Photo (of a white-cheeked turaco, Tauraco leucotis) by Loren Sztager. |
Livingston’s turaco, I presume (Tauraco livingstoni). This species explores the forests of southern Tanzania and Malawi. Photo by Heather Paul. |
The Hartlaub’s turaco (Tauraco hartlaubi) leaps about in the forests of the Kenyan highlands. Photo by Francesco Veronesi. |
“Mama mia, here we go again... my, my... how can I resist you?” Photo posted on Flickr by Belgianchocolate. |